After a two-year battle with local residents and councillor Joe Pantalone, Ici Bistro is finally open for business. And after all that debate over the little bistro that could, has the Harbord neighbourhood changed for better, worse or not at all?
The dispute which saw the provincial NDP rep and the local councillor of the same party on opposite sides focused on whether Ici should open on the corner of Harbord and Manning, across from Harbord Collegiate high school.
At the worst, residents feared a liquor license would bring a bar, along with unwanted noise, underage drinking and possible violence to the neighbourhood.
But on the flip side, Chef J.P. Challet’s tiny 24-seat French bistro could bring revitalization and increased safety to the largely residential strip.
Trinity-Spadina MPP Rosario Marchese initially opposed the application.
“We have for years fought the different establishments on the south corner and the north corner when they’ve tried to get a liquor license because they were catering to students,” he says.
But when Marchese discovered that Ici was an upscale French bistro, he changed his mind. This, despite the fact that NDP colleague Pantalone was still opposed, along with the Palmerston Area Resident’s Association (PARA).
According to Allan Reynolds, PARA Chair, residents assumed the worst. “The Ici people didn’t really go out of their way to widely inform the neighbourhood that they were going to be a really nice little French Bistro as opposed to being a place that [could attract] underage drinkers.”
PARA later reversed their decision asking that 15 conditions be built into the license, including a public hearing if the owners ever decide to sell. This would help to prevent a less desirable business from taking over the license.
Like most disputes, it seems this was a case of simple miscommunication.
But that was only part of the problem.
According to councillor-elect Mike Layton, the problem came from Ossington, where nightclubs were posing as licensed restaurants. Residents were afraid this could happen on Harbord.
Jennifer Decorte of Ici Bistro agrees that Ici became entangled in the ongoing debate over drinking establishments.
“Should we have licensed restaurants in the city and where should they be? And what does licensing a restaurant do for a community? That whole issue was bubbling around at the same time,” she says.
“We became kind of an icon for an opportunity to think about small business and particularly the restaurant business and how we manage that in our city.”
Despite the political fuss, Ici has settled into the neighbourhood quite nicely. An enthusiastic Decorte describes the positive response they’ve already received.
“We got flowers sent to us, thanking us for the extraordinary experience. I said to my partner have you ever heard of that before? A thank-you note? It’s like a date. We had a date!”
Joe Pantalone has accepted the outcome, yet is skeptical of the area’s future.
“The precedent has been set that all other commercially-zoned properties can also apply for liquor licenses and because the law has to be fair, the argument that it’s not in the public interest no longer applies [and] chances are they will get it.”
Yet Marchese remains optimistic.
“It’s beautiful to see people walking at night in and out of restaurants near their homes. They create more safety in the community.”
Layton agrees. “Ici is one of the businesses we actually wanted in the community. Hopefully it will be part of a rejuvenation of the entire neighbourhood.”
Other businesses have already opened up in the mainly residential area, including an African arts store, coffeehouse and tattoo parlour.
Decorte is glad the fight has come to an end.
“We’re anxious to put [the conflict] behind us, and hopefully we’ll have better stories to tell that won’t have anything to do with politics, but will have everything to do with fine cuisine and great service.”
