BANNOCK 401 Bay, at Queen West, 416-834-6996, bannockrestaurant.ca.
Ontario Venison Chuck Chili ($15)
The first of a projected cross-Canada string of native-Canadian-inspired eateries, Oliver and Bonacini's latest venture is as rustic as a Hudson Bay blanket, from the reclaimed lumber on the walls to the tortierre on executive chef Anthony Walsh's comfort food card.
But nothing evokes Canuck cuisine more eloquently than Walsh's clever multi-culti take on chili: Tex-Mex filtered through Subcontinental and Caribbean spicing, with the texture of a classic bolognese sauce, dressed with aged Quebecois cheddar and sided with grilled Scottish flatbread freckled with fresh rosemary and thyme.
What could be more quintessentially Canadian?
Dining room open Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 10 pm, Saturday noon to 10 pm, Sunday noon to 4 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier-free.