BRISTOL YARD 146 Christie, at Pendrith, 647-716-6583.
Wings' Linda McCartney may not have been the world's greatest keyboard player, but her vegetarian cookbooks and line of prepared dinners radicalized the way Britain eats.
"I had one of her veggie sausage rolls over there and couldn't believe I wasn't eating meat," says DJ-turned-restaurateur Davey Love. "And I'm an expert on sausage rolls."
She helped inspire his Brit-tastic gastropub's meat-free pies stuffed with proper fillings like potato 'n' leek or cheese 'n' onion (both $10 with mash and mushy peas).
"Perfecting a pastry that doesn't use lard was difficult," says Love. "But it turned out so good, we now use it for all our pies, meat included."
He's also developed a credible veggie spin on shepherd's pie ($11) using minced black beans, mushrooms and TVP bound with a Worcestershire-like mushroom ketchup that gives the dish its familiar flavour profile. And, yes, there's a whack o' butter and cream in those artfully whipped spuds. But what's that lingering spice?
"Mace," laughs Love. "We probably use more of it in Toronto than anyone else, even the cops."
Dinner Wednesday to Sunday 6 to 10 pm. Brunch Saturday and Sunday 10 am to 4 pm. Closed Monday, Tuesday, holidays. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor.