Straight no mo’
The gay bar formerly known as Straight has morphed into the slightly more ambiguous Smith (553 Church, at Dundonald, 416-926-2501, 553church.com). Wish’s Renda Abdo and crew are still behind the upscale three-storey resto-lounge (anyone remember the old Bar Babylon?), but the focus now will be more on the food than the firewater. Long-time Wish chef Peter Mc-Knight promises the de rigueur classic comfort food likes of Southern-fried chicken with collard greens in ham gravy ($17) at dinner and corn cakes topped with aged cheddar and bacon ($10) at weekend brunch.
Brunch crunch
There’s no question that quirky Fabarnak (519 Church, at Dundonald, 416-355-6781, fabarnak.com) in the new 519 Community Centre dishes up some of the most inventive and ridiculously inexpensive plates in town. Planet-friendly and health-conscious, too.
Sadly, the breezy café’s just-introduced brunch card isn’t quite up to its stellar lunch and dinner standards. Oh, a lidded Le Creuset casserole reveals a terrific spicy Cajun-style gumbo thick with sausage, shrimp and grits topped with a fried egg ($9), but where’s Fabarnak’s fabulous $7 weekday quiche combo? And lumpy pancakes sided with peameal bacon, smothered in whipped cream and a bizarre French toast/Monte Cristo hybrid (both $8) deserve the heave-ho.
Crepe It Up creeps next door
After a lengthy renovation that saw it take over the Pita Pan take-away next door, a much larger Crepe It Up has re-emerged as Café by Crepe It Up & Pavillion Pastries (507½ Church, at Wellesley, 416-916-3558, crepeitup.com). The sweet ‘n’ savoury eco-minded crepe menu’s much the same ($3.95 to $6.95) but now includes Greek-style specialties like honey-drenched loukoumades (three for $1).
Prisoner of Zelda’s
Now firmly entrenched in her new old digs, Zelda’s Living Well (692 Yonge, at St. Mary, 416-922-2526, zeldas.ca) has a whole long weekend of trashy shenanigans planned for Pride. Tonight (Thursday, June 30), there’s her staff drag show and wet underwear contest, Friday (July 1) sees the return of Lena Over’s Cheap Show and even cheaper martinis (both from 9 pm), and Sunday (July 3) from 9:30 am to 2 pm, Ms. Angelfire holds her annual pre-parade all-you-can-eat $14.95 buffet brunch.
Over on Church, the previous Zelda’s has been reborn as Acme Burger (542 Church, at Wellesley West, 647-352-4089, theacmeburgercompany.com). Don’t go expecting beer and a patio. Acme’s owners are pitching the spot as a “family restaurant” and currently don’t serve booze.
BYZ Buzz
Those looking for something a little more genteel than Zelda’s come Sunday morning (July 3) should check out the annual Pride brunch at Byzantium (499 Church, at Wellesley, 416-922-3859, byz.ca). Available from 11:30 am to 3 pm, the classy cocktail lounge’s lineup includes Belgian waffles with whipped cream ($14), beefy lamb burgers with frites ($16) and red-neck pulled pork tacos over cornbread pancakes ($15).
stevend@nowtoronto.com
