Shawn Micallef isn’t a big fan of brunch. In his new book, The Trouble With Brunch ($13.95, Coach House), he explores how this weekend ritual raises issues about class and conspicuous consumption.
What’s your problem with brunch?
The super-popular places that everyone lines up for. They’re crowded, service isn’t the greatest, and eating becomes an ordeal because it ends up taking hours and never lives up to its billing as a relaxing thing to do on a Sunday.
Are you saying brunch be abolished?
No, I don’t want to abolish what others think of as fun, but I hope this book nudges people into thinking about the conspicuous consumption involved.
Isn’t every going-out meal conspicuous consumption?
It depends. If you’re going out to lunch or just fuelling up, it is conspicuous, but not in the see-and-be-seen kind of way. When you make it into a scene with the lineups, it goes into this class practice.
How much is this about hipsterdom?
I wouldn’t say hipsterdom, but it overlaps. I’m referring more to the creative class, people who live in cities and do precarious work, like on contract or without benefits. Leisure time becomes tight and precious, and spending it on brunch is something I don’t find leisurely. I found brunch a fun way to enter into the topic of class.
If someone were reading this while having brunch, what’s the take-away?
I hope they’ll look at the patrons around them and wonder if they’re in a similar position, facing the same precarious work conditions and maybe connect with them and band together around common difficulties.
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