Recently reviewed



Skin + Bones

980 Queen E, at Carlaw, 416-524-5209,, @skinandbonesto Ex-Enoteca Sociale partner Daniel Clarke’s stylish Leslieville wine bar might be more at home on King West, but its moderately priced brunch menu and supplementary all-you-can-eat buffet – buy any main and the buffet’s an additional 3 bucks – fits this brunchiest of nabes like a glove. Best: gluten-free porchetta Bennys with sous-vide poached eggs in hollandaise over cheesy polenta buttermilk fried chicken with Asian apple slaw sides of triple-cooked potato wedges with house-made ranch dressing for the rug rats, peanut butter ‘n’ jelly French toast from the buffet, house-baked cinnamon buns, cheese puffs and palmiers house-cured bresaola and salami granola with high-fat yogurt with syrup-poached pears. Complete brunches for $30 per person, including tax, tip and a mimosa. Average main $15. Open for brunch Sunday 10 am to 2 pm dinner Sunday to Thursday 5 to 11 pm, Friday and Saturday 5 pm to 1 am. Closed some holidays. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNN

Dim Sum


328 Wellington W, at Peter, 416-935-0400,, @LuckeeTO Not content with Bent and Lee – not to mention his outpost in Singapore and the upcoming projects at the airport and One World Trade Center, New York City – superstar chef Susur Lee turns his visionary hand to dim sum with spectacular results. Best: cheung fun rice rolls stuffed with poached chicken, caramelized onion and crunchy deep-fried rice paper dumplings of buttery lobster and asparagus, or spicy Swatow-style chicken with pickled celery classic har gow stuffed with plump shrimp minced chicken ‘n’ shrimp sui mai spiked with orange peel deep-fried cubes of house-made tofu studded with fresh corn braised beef and shiitake mushrooms bao to finish, bite-sized spirals of sponge cake in chocolate ganache. Complete dim sum meals for $35 per person, including tax, tip and tea. Open for dim sum Saturday and Sunday 11 am to 3 pm à la carte dinner Tuesday to Sunday 5:30 to 11 pm. Bar menu daily 3 pm to 1 am. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNNN



778 St Clair W, at Arlington, 416-342-1906,, @pukkatoronto Harsh Chawla and Derek Valleau’s stylish uptown bistro goes where few local Indian restos ever venture – upscale. A creative kitchen, smooth service and noise levels that allow for conversation make full houses the norm rather than the exception. Reservations essential most nights. Best: tapas-style starters like papri chat with puffed rice, ripe mango and Granny Smith apple dressed with pomegranate seeds in sweet yogurt dressing spicy south Indian fried Chicken 65 garnished with nasturtiums shareable mains like nutty butter chicken with wilted fenugreek leaves smoky lamb chop “lollipops” à la Vancouver’s Vikram Vij in minty cream sauce sides of French green beans with caramelized onion and shredded coconut baskets of buttery garlic naan and crisp whole wheat rotis to finish, sundae-like Eton Mess in pomegranate syrup and sweet lassi cream topped with rosewater-soaked meringue. Complete dinners for $60 per person, including tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $22. Open nightly 5 to 10 pm. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNNN



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