Recently reviewed



County Cocktail & Snack Bar

798 Queen E, at Boulton, 416-781-4743,, @countycocktail Carlo Catallo’s County General expands into Riverside with an abbreviated menu of the General’s greatest hits and an expansive cocktail card. Best: from the all-day menu, deep-fried chicken thigh sandwiches house burgers made with aged Cumbrae chuck, both sided with greens, soup or kettle chips at dinner, tapas like free-range devilled eggs with cod fritters steamed Chinese bao with braised beef cheeks ‘n’ trumpet mushroom marmalade larger plates like pulled pork shoulder tacos with pickled carrot slaw and salsa verde warm pumpkin cake drizzled with pear butter. Complete dinners for $45 per person (lunches/brunches $30), including tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $15. Open for lunch Monday to Friday 11 am to 4 pm, dinner Sunday to Wednesday 5 to 10 pm, Thursday to Saturday 5 to 11 pm. Weekend brunch 11 am to 4:30 pm. Café from 7 am Monday to Friday. Bar nightly till close. Closed some holidays. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: two steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN

Dim Sum


328 Wellington W, at Peter, 416-935-0400,,

@LuckeeTO Not content with Bent and Lee – not to mention his outpost in Singapore and the upcoming projects at the airport and One World Trade Center, New York City – superstar chef Susur Lee turns his visionary hand to dim sum with spectacular results. Best: cheung fun rice rolls stuffed with poached chicken, caramelized onion and crunchy deep-fried rice paper dumplings of buttery lobster and asparagus, or spicy Swatow-style chicken with pickled celery classic har gow stuffed with plump shrimp minced chicken ‘n’ shrimp sui mai spiked with orange peel deep-fried cubes of house-made tofu studded with fresh corn braised beef and shiitake mushrooms bao to finish, bite-sized spirals of sponge cake in chocolate ganache. Complete dim sum meals for $35 per person, including tax, tip and tea. Open for dim sum Saturday and Sunday 11 am to 3 pm à la carte dinner Tuesday to Sunday 5:30 to 11 pm. Bar menu daily 3 pm to 1 am. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNNN

Middle Eastern

S. Lefkowitz

913 Dundas W, at Bellwoods, 647-346-8448,, @hummus-lefkowitz Subtitled “the hummus institute of North America,” Ezra Brave’s reconfigured coffee house is downtown’s first café dedicated to the humble chickpea dip. Stellar Middle Eastern grub and minimal seating make lineups inevitable on the weekend. Best: shareable hummus plates splashed with French olive oil infused with house-ground za’atar and topped with spicy minced beef, warm mixed olives or chopped-up hard-boiled egg, all with pitas sadly baked off-site wild Pacific sardines with slivered Spanish onion in hot harissa oil over retro iceberg lettuce mild Macedonian feta with fresh mint salads of local red-leaf kale, baby watercress and arugula micro-sprouts in lemony apple cider vinaigrette to finish, walnuts and dates in honey house-made halvah with orange sections. Complete meals for $18 per person, including tax, tip and a mug of strong organic coffee. Average main $7. Open Tuesday to Sunday 11:30 am to 8 pm. Closed Monday, holidays. No reservations. Unlicensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN



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