SWISH BY HAN 38 Wellington East, at Leader Lane, 647-343-0268.
Pork Neck Tacos ($10)
There's no question that upscale Korean is the next big thing. We're not talking proletarian stuff like pork bone soup, but fancy-pants dishes like lobster bi bim bap and $20 hamburgers dressed with kimchee.
Just slightly ahead of the culinary curve, this busy downtown Seoul-food kitchen jumps on board with soft tortillas stuffed with spicy shredded pig's neck and raw red cabbage slaw artfully drizzled with chipotle mayo and sour cream queso fresca. Sounds a lot like David Chang's Momofuku in New York, no?
"If you've ever eaten there, you'll know that Swish is completely different," says co-owner/chef Leeto Han. "We do Korean food with contemporary influences. Chang does contemporary food with Korean influences. We're not the same at all."
Lunch Monday to Friday noon to 2 pm, dinner Monday to Saturday 5 to 10:30 pm. Bar till close. Closed Sunday, holidays. Licensed. Access: barrier-free.