1. Pizzeria Libretto
221 Ossington, at Dundas W, 416-532-8000, pizzerialibretto.com. No longer the only AVPN-certified pie in town, this busy west-side trat is still the best, especially its brilliantly blistered 'za topped with house-made fennel-freckled sausage, hellaceously hot peppers, thick San Marzano sauce, local bufala mozzarella and a final drizzle of honey ($19). Monday to Saturday noon to 11 pm, Sunday 4 to 11 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement.
2. Queen Margherita Pizza
1402 Queen E, at Vancouver, 416-466-6555, queenmargheritapizza.ca. Named for Naples-born Romolo Salvati, the Romolo ($16.95), a remarkably yeasty crust brushed with pulpy house sauce and tossed with local fior di latte, prosciutto cotto and 'shrooms. Monday to Thursday noon to 11 pm, Friday and Saturday noon to midnight, Sundays noon to 10 pm. Licensed. Access: five steps at door, another 11 to dining room, washrooms on same floor.
720 Queen W, at Claremont, 416-504-0320 and others, terroni.ca. No, they won't cut your pie - that's what your knife is for - and they don't allow substitutions, but this maddeningly delicious pizza still betters most of what's out there, our fave, the Santo Stefano ($17.95) finished with house sauce, bufala mozzarella, arugula and prosciutto. Sunday to Thursday 9 am to 11 pm, Friday and Saturday 9 am to 11:30 pm. Access: barrier-free.
4. Pizza e Pazzi
30 Yonge, at Front, 416-546-1062, obika.ca. Though this Rome-based chain's mozzarella is officially DOP, its non-AVPN Margherita ($14) may as well be the real thing, dressed with the correct cheese, San Marzano tomato sauce and minimal basil, its thin, blistered crust appropriately floppy. Monday to Thursday 7 am to 11 pm, Friday 7 am to midnight, Saturday 11 am to midnight. Access: barrier-free.
1163 St Clair W, at Dufferin, 416-656-6159, marcellospizzeria.com. Though it's rarely mentioned in the endless Terroni vs Libretto pizza debate, this family-style trat bakes a thin-crusted pie their equal, notably the Pizza alla Compagniola ($13.95) layered with spicy sausage, grilled eggplant, roasted red peppers, mozzarella and house tomato sauce. Monday to Wednesday 11:30 am to 10:30 pm, Thursday to Saturday 11:30 am to 11 pm, Sunday 1 to 10:30 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement.
7. Gerrard Spaghetti & Pizza
1528 Danforth, at Rhodes, 416-463-7792. A hipster's Terroni this ain't. Who cares when the thin-crusted pies are as tasty as the Nancy ($16), complete with nutty basil pesto, chèvre, fior di latte, sliced Yukon Gold potato and home-grown pickled hot peppers? Monday 4 to 11 pm, Tuesday to Thursday 11:30 am to 11 pm, Friday 11:30 am to midnight, Saturday 4 pm to midnight. Closed Sunday. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement.
8. Diverso by Ferraro
328 Dupont, at Spadina, 416-929-3388, diversobyferraro.com. Why they flock: the Pizza Canadese ($10 lunch/$12 dinner), a marvellously retro combo of tomato sauce, mozzarella, mushrooms, pepperoni and green pepper. Also: 502 Eglinton W, at Warren, 416-488-7729. Monday to Thursday 11 am to 10 pm, Friday 11:30 am to 11 pm, Saturday noon to 11 pm, Sunday and holidays 4 to 9 pm. Licensed. Access: four steps at door, washrooms on same floor.
1 Romar Cr, at Marlee, 416-256-6222, bigabaldis.com. If a minimally dressed, barely there pie isn't your style, go for the Bigga Pizza ($14.50 small), cracker-crisp and generously dressed with house San Marzano tomato sauce, local mozzarella, sausage, bacon, mortadella and fresh basil. And they deliver! Sunday and Monday 11 am to 10 pm, Tuesday and Wednesday 11 am to 11 pm, Thursday to Saturday 11 am to midnight. Unlicensed. Access: three steps at door, washrooms on same floor.
3010 Dundas W, at High Park, 416-763-4191. Toronto's longest-running pizzeria kicks it old school with the Vesuvio Super ($18), a Deluxe (pepperoni, mushroom, green peppers, $15.75) ramped up with ham, bacon and onion. Pineapple optional (75 cents). Monday to Thursday 11:30 am to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am to 11 pm, Sunday and holidays 3 to 10 pm. Delivery till 10 pm, except 11 pm Wednesday and Thursday, midnight Friday and Saturday. Access: barrier-free.