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Food & Drink

Toucan tango

People weren’t lining up on the sidewalk in minus 15 degree Celsius weather half an hour before they opened like they do for Parkdale it-spot Grand Electric, but year-old Le Rossignol in Riverside was doing very nicely, thank you. Problem was, there wasn’t much of a lunch crowd out that way for classic French cuisine.

“It was great on the weekends, but dead during the week,” says the resto’s owner Richard Henry. “But all the other restaurants in my immediate area like BQM Burgers and Dark Horse do great business. So I figured we’d be better off using the space for what it should be.”

That meant folding Le Rossignol into its nearby sister Le Canard Mort (896 Queen E, at Logan, 416-625-2653, lecanardmort.ca).

“We’re already getting a lot of Le Rossignol regulars,” notes Henry. “They can still order from the old menu and the staff have all moved with us including both chefs and Veronique our famous server. I wouldn’t lose her if my life depended on it!”

So why jump on the taco bandwagon?

“I like Mexican food,” laughs Henry. “And everyone else does, too. Look how many people go down to Mexico every year. Everybody’s doing burritos so I thought why not a taco bar?”

Henry admits that the week-old Toucan is having trouble sourcing the flour tortillas they deep-fry into taco shells. He wants to offer soft shells but is finding the quality of what’s out there not that great.

“We’re getting them from La Tortilleria but they don’t seem to be working the way we’d like,” says Henry of the Kensington taqueria. “We’ve started making our own, so once they’re perfected, they’ll be on the menu.”

Toucan’s existing six-inch tacos, which range from $4.50 to $9 each, stick close to tradition with none of that nuevo pickled pigs trotter and chicken gizzard shtick.

“They’re all fairly traditional,” says Henry. “The pulled pork and the oysters, maybe not. But the salsas are all the real thing. All of our cocktails are tequila based and all of the beer is Mexican.”

If Toucan takes off, if you’ll pardon the expression, do you see opening more?

“Definitely,” says Henry. “The concept can easily be expanded. But I’d really like to get a Toucan Taco truck. I think it would be great fun!”

Toucan Taco Bar, 686 Queen E, at Broadview, 416-461-9663. Tuesday to Friday 11:30 am till late, Saturday 12:30 pm till late. Closed Sunday, Monday and some holidays. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor.

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