URSA 924 Queen W, at Shaw, 416-536-8963, ursa-restaurant.com.
Jacob Sharkey-Pearce's avant-garde carte borrows a lot of techniques employed in extreme vegetarian cuisine - dehydration, rehydration and sprouting to name but a few.
See them all at work at once on his seasonal tomato salad ($16). That's 14 heirloom varities on the plate, from the moat of tomato water that surrounds the dish to the charred, compressed and confitted slices that finish it.
Those seeking an alternative to partridge waffles over quinoa, slightly pickled cabbage and foraged chanterelles ($26) should look no further than the main chef simply calls "Vegetables" ($21). Imagine a fall landscape composed entirely of roughage.
"The dried kale looks like leaves, the dhydrated burdock like branches and the parsnips are bark, " says Sharkey-Pearce. "It just came to me while I was walking in the park."
There are also sheets of gluten-free pasta made from pulverized fava beans, pickled red Swiss chard stems and a smoked tomato passata.
"We're always looking for new ways to cook," explains Sharkey-Pearce, who's about to open an experimental food lab on Ursa's second floor. "Our customers have come to expect it."
Dinner Tuesday to Sunday 6 to 11 pm. Reservations recommended. Bar till late. Closed Monday, holidays. Licensed. Access: two steps at door, washrooms in basement.