Looking for a sure thing for dinner tomorrow night and brunch the morning after? NOW’s resident resto critic Steven Davey picks the best of both worlds.
Saturday
Batifole
744 Gerrard E, at Howland, 416-462-9965, batifole.ca. Though this unconventional bistro bills itself as the best French restaurant in Chinatown East, owner/chef Jean-Jacques Texier’s modish south Riverdale room – pale taupe walls with a large, sweeping bar down one side, tables topped with brown kraft paper, moulded plywood chairs, Carla Bruni on the CD player – is easily one of the best bistros in town. Bonus: all starters are priced at $8, mains $18 and à la carte sides $6! Deep wine cellar, too. Best: from a regularly changing card, to begin, escargot fricassee from a secret family recipe smooth chicken liver brûlé with black grape and Armagnac preserves entrees like pan-fried Provimi veal liver with green olives, roasted garlic, capers and lemony brown butter white bean cassoulet with duck confit, sausage and crispy pork belly hand-chopped horse sirloin tartare seared veal flank steak with roasted shallots on the side, chunky pommes frites with tarragon mayo simple green salads to finish, pecan crepes flambéed in Jack Daniels crème brûlée tarte tatin. Complete dinners for $50 per person, including tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $18. Open for dinner Saturday 6 to 10:30 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
Campagnolo
832 Dundas W, at Euclid, 416-364-4785, campagnolotoronto.com. Housed in an abandoned Coffee Time franchise, former Four chef du cuisine Craig Harding and partner Alexandra Hutchison’s way-casual 66-seat bistro brings Mediterranean glam to this otherwise charmingly dumpy strip. Don’t have a reservation for one of the hottest joints du jour? Since they only book half the room, your chances of scoring a walk-in are 50/50. Best: to start, baskets of epi baguette with whipped butter starters like delicately battered artichoke hearts fresh burrata with roasted olive-oil-soaked grapes brodo-braised rabbit with wilted kale and toasted pinenuts garlicky skewers of charcoal-grilled local lamb substantial mains like slow-cooked meaty cannelloni beans with smoked fall-from-the-hoof pork hock and pasta ends wild boar ragu with rubbery strips of tripe and mamma mia meatballs over buttery coarse polenta to finish, salty caramel sticky toffee. Complete dinners for $55 per person, including tax, tip and a cocktail. Average tapas $12. Open for dinner Saturday 6 pm to midnight. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN
Lee Lounge
601 King W, at Portland, 416-504-7867, susur.com. The most important kitchen talent to emerge from Toronto in the last 25 years, Susur Lee shifts gears with his most accessible card yet. And though many of the dishes (his signature Singapore slaw, caramelized black cod) that made the top chef’s international rep are still on board, the new focus is not only some of his best work to date but also the most wallet-friendly. Best: beautifully crisp potato chips (!) tossed with garlic and Italian parsley, paired with whipped chickpea hummus (!!) dressed with smoked chipotle pepper and pickled red onion relish deep-fried Hunan-style chicken wings spicy Malaysian satay of grilled shrimp, spice-dusted pineapple and juicy calamansi lime Peking scallion pancakes with persimmon foie gras jam, tender-pink roast duck confit and crunchy bean-curd-skin crackling to finish, upside-down pineapple raspberry pannacotta. Complete tapas meals for $75 per person, including tax, tip and a sake. Average tapas $15. Open for dinner Monday to Saturday 5:30 to 11:30 pm. Closed Sunday, holidays. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNNN
Sunday
E.L. Ruddy
1371 Dundas W, at Rusholme, 647-351-0423. Helena Kosikova’s cozy 20-seat café on the hip Dundas West strip spotlights a short all-day card that’s often gluten-free as well as vegan, and always made from scratch and low in sodium. From the menu: “slow service after 4 pm.” Best: to start, instead of boring brunch garnish, a complimentary fruit salad of exactly one grape, a nectarine section, a halved strawberry and three pomegranate seeds massive spelt Belgian waffles the size of oven mitts dolled up with maple syrup, whipped cream and stewed strawberries Huevos Yelapa with either two eggs or garlicky baked tofu plus refried beans, toasted cornbread and in-yer-face salsa to take home, wild blueberry scones and quinoa chocolate chip cookies. Complete brunches for $15 per person, including tax, tip and a refilled mug of I Deal coffee. Average main $8. Open for brunch Sunday 9 am to 8 pm. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
Frankly
1118 Queen E, at Caroline, 647-350-1611, franklyeatery.com. Does the Leslieville strip really need another brunch spot? It most definitely does when the card is this unique, the soundtrack – T.Rex, Roxy Music, the Smiths – this artfully curated and the service so charming. Shame there are only 18 seats. Best: Indo-inspired mains like gobi parantha, thick whole wheat crepes stuffed with al dente cauliflower sided with sour cream raita, spicy house-made sausage and coriander chutney BLT built on toasted slices of St John’s Bakery’s sourdough stacked with thick Upper Cut bacon, ripe tomato and avocado mayo at weekend brunch, corn tortillas piled with tandoori-style pulled pork, perfectly scrambled free-range eggs and garlicky roasted tomato salsa lashed with avocado cream, a heap of commercial organic greens dressed in honey balsamic on the side. Complete brunches for $18 per person, including tax, tip and an Americano. Average main $10. Open for brunch Sunday 9 am to 4 pm. Unlicensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN
Frida
999 Eglinton W, at Glen Cedar, 416-787-2221, fridarestaurant.ca. Inspired by Mexican artist Frida Kalho, this decidedly modish cantina – red velvet banquettes, bare black laquered tables, cool halogen light fixtures overhead – is not only sombrero-free, but Jose Hadad’s upscale card eschews all Tex-Mex clichés as well. Best: the honourary Frida Y Diego omelette stuffed with red and green peppers and sauced with both salsa verde and salsa roja, sided with refried black beans and crumbled queso fresca shredded chicken breast in spicy pibil sauce wrapped in soft tacos topped with pickled red onion the 8-ounce house burger dressed with aged cheddar, sliced pineapple and peppery pasillo mayo on the side, double-smoked house-made chorizo to drink, freshly squeezed lemonade finished with raspberries and crushed ice. Complete brunches for $25 per person, including tax, tip and a coffee. Average main $12. Open Sunday 10:30 am to 2 pm. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
