A new Toronto business in the Church and Wellesley neighbourhood is aiming to create a space reminiscent of The Village’s heyday, during a time when queer people need community more than ever.
Nestled in the heart of The Village, 505 Church St. is currently an empty storefront, formerly the storage room for the pizza shop next door. But soon, it will transform into a cozy, welcoming coffee shop and wine bar aiming to provide an ideal “third space” for the community.
Called Understory, the new shop is named for the layer of vegetation that exists below the main canopy of a forest.
Founded by a local Toronto couple, Dani Gaede and Rowan Jetté Knox, the cafe and bar is set to open this fall, with renovations anticipated to begin next month.
Matching the name, design plans for the space include a massive, hyperrealistic faux tree, reaching up the wall with branches that spread across the ceiling.
“So, you have the tree, and then everything below it is the understory. So, it’s very diverse, lush, and colourful, and we think it’s a really cool metaphor,” Knox told Queer & Now.
Other plans for the space include seating for up to 25 people, with plush couches, cozy chairs, and an antique harvest table that has been in Knox’s family for generations.
The location is accessible, featuring wide hallways, as well as an entrance and bathroom that are accessible for customers using mobility aids.
“The idea is that we want people to kind of come in here and kind of leave their worries at the door, just that feeling as though you stepped into another place,” Gaede shared with Queer & Now.
BUSINESS OWNERS AND ACTIVISTS
In addition to their work opening Understory, Jette and Gaede are both activists in their own right.
Knox’s work within the world of activism began in 2014, when one of his children came out as non-binary. Since then, he has gone on to work extensively as a speaker, writer, and advocate for 2SLGBTQ+ rights, before coming out himself a few years ago. But since his work in advocacy began, Knox has noted the concerning backslide of transgender rights in North America.
“What I’ve watched since 2014, especially in the last few years, is this erosion of our rights, and this souring by a lot of society when it comes to trans people,” Knox explained.
The couple recognizes their privilege living in a place like Toronto, with access to all the amenities designed for 2SLGBTQ+ people that the city has to offer. But Knox says people often reach out to him from all over the world, sharing stories of struggle and persecution. Understory is his way of showing up for the 2SLGBTQ+ community during a time of need.
“I can’t solve all the problems, and that’s been weighing on my mind a lot… I just really felt like now was the time to do something concrete,” he shared. “None of us can fix the world, providing a safer space in a time that is tough for queer people in general, that is something that we’re able to do.”
REPRESENTATION FOR OLDER TRANS PEOPLE
But it’s not just about fighting the good fight; it’s also about representation. Jette and Gaede both transitioned in their 40s. The couple explained that their experiences coming out in adulthood have underlined the importance of healthy representation of 2SLGBTQ+ lives.
“A lot of times we see [representation from] influencers and people who are much younger, and that’s important too. But I think you need to see a little bit into the future, too and go, ‘Oh yeah, I can grow older, and I can still be here.’ I’ve had younger people reach out to me online and say, I have never seen a trans man as old as you.”
At the beginning of her transition, it was the representation Gaede saw online of happy, thriving trans women that gave her hope. This is something she now hopes to recreate for others.
“When you’re in a place where you think your whole world is ending, to be able to see people that are proof that you can still be fulfilled, that you can still follow your dreams after you transition,” she explained. “One of the things that I did during the pandemic and beyond was my form of activism was just being visible.”
Gaede’s activism focuses on creating that representation, taking up space on social media, showing her experiences and documenting her life. This has led to other 2SLGBTQ+ women reaching out to connect and seeking advice, allowing Gaede to find community online.
“So, while [Knox] was doing all of his activism on this global scale and touching so many lives so far across the globe, my form was in these individual kinds of ways. Just letting people see we aren’t a threat,” Gaede explained. “We’re just people. We have hopes and dreams and families just like everyone else.”
Knox wants to be able to show his wider following that trans people are still supporting each other and the greater community.
“There’s very little difference between me as a trans person and somebody else who’s not trans, who might walk through the door and order a cup of coffee or a glass of wine. But I want to showcase that we can do just about anything and provide some hope right now. We need that hope.”
JUST ANOTHER MOM AND POP SHOP
Gaede, who moved to The Village from Grimsby, Ontario, 30 years ago, says that at that time, there were a plethora of spaces for queer people to hang out and connect. That’s no longer the case.
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“I think our rights as LGBTQ people came up in the world, and we spread out more because it was safe,” she explained. “It felt as though a lot of the battles had been won, and it was safe to move out.”
But with the closure of many queer-owned bars throughout the city, and staples like Glad Day Bookshop being forced to leave The Village, there are fewer 2SLGBTQ+ spaces in Toronto, and this comes at a time when queer spaces could not be more vital.
“I found that in the last few years, especially with the rhetoric coming out of the States and the U.K., there has been such a change in sentiment around LGBTQ people, and gathering spaces are not what they used to be,” she explained. “I think now, more than ever, our community needs this.”
The couple has been together for three years, and between the two of them, they have five children. In this aspect, Knox says that they’re helping give realistic representation to successful, happy trans lives and queer families.
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“We can tell this story from the lens of being two trans people starting this business, and this is why it’s important for activism reasons,” Knox shared. “On the other hand, we’re a mom and pop shop with five kids. You know what I mean? We’re just like everybody else, and I think that dichotomy is really interesting.”
A QUIET THIRD SPACE
The founders explained that it’s important for the new watering hole to be more than just a place to grab a drink and connect with friends, but also a place where people can relax and unwind.
“We’re aiming for this to be a nice, quiet third space,” Knox said, adding that there is a reason they are so intentional about this aspect.
“We know that in our community, there’s a lot of neurodivergence, and when you’re neurodivergent, which I am, the noise can get overwhelming out there. So, we wanted to create something softer.”
“I want someone to walk through this door that isn’t queer or is cis and be like, this is a wonderful place. I love the coffee, I love the wine. The owners are really nice,” Gaede added.
While renovations are yet to get underway, Understory is expected to open this November. You can follow the space for updates on Instagram.
