Fuzz Box stomp


Since opening just two weeks ago, Fuzz Box (1246 Danforth, at Greenwood, 416-769-1432, thefuzzbox.ca, Rating: NNNN) has become a culinary cause célèbre. At suppertime it seems like all of Hogtown has descended on Neil Dominey’s modest east-side take-away to get their first taste of Halifax-style donairs.

Sure, Geoff Hopgood’s Foodliner on Roncesvalles does an upscale take on house-baked pita at twice the price, and College Falafel on Ossington offers a weirdly spiced Albanian version it calls “east coast” (the Adriatic, we’d guess), but only Fuzz Box’s are the real deal.

Kissing cousin to a Greektown gyro, ($4.99 small/$5.99 regular/$8.99 super), it features a thicker than usual grilled pita wrapped around spicy ground beef spiked with paprika and cayenne. Dressed simply with diced ripe tomato and mild Spanish onion, these donairs also come slathered in a slimy sweet garlic sauce you’ll either love or loathe.

You can also get donair toppings on pizza ($9.99/$13.99/$16.99), while Haligonian garlic fingers ($5.99/$8.49) are nothing but a plain cheese pizza. Pair them with a starter of deep-fried pepperoni ($4.99) and you’re almost there.

Hot turkey sandwiches in gravy ($8.99) are another delicious exercise in nostalgia, built as they should be on supermarket white bread and sided with sugary KFC-style coleslaw and buttery baked potatoes.

A dessert called Blueberry Grunt ($4.49) turns out to be dumplings swimming in pie filling squirted with industrial whipped cream.

The menu’s description of the catch of the day – “from the land, the sky, or the sea” – has us pining for squirrel or possum, but we make do with smoked trout hash ($8.49 with salad and spuds) and the daily soup – cream of ‘shroom ($3.49) – instead.

Figures a joint launched 4/20 would serve stoner comfort food.



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