Rating: NNNNN
1 Cafe 668 668 Dundas West, at Denison, 416-703-0668. NOW’s 2002 Best Restaurant in a recently redecorated storefront just west of Chinatown offers innovatively updated Buddhist vegetarian cooking. This intimate Vietnamese spot rocks the mock with kick-ass spicing that includes unorthodox garlic and onion if requested. Best: to start, 668 Salad with shredded deep-fried tofu, cucumber, carrot, peppers and grilled cashews, or cold rice-paper-wrapped Summer Rolls stuffed with slivers of deep-fried tofu, carrot, cellophane noodles, wood-ear and Thai basil king mushrooms with faux sirloin over stir-fried mixed peppers, snow peas and baby corn Spicy Tofu – large cubes of silky-centred deep-fried tofu in a chili-spiked sauce thick with julienned carrots, bell peppers and snow peas Vegetarian Curry with tofu pork, carrots, chewy Chinese mushrooms, cauliflower and napa cabbage in tasty yellow gravy goofy but good deep-fried ‘shrooms in batter dunked in sweet ‘n’ spicy lemon grass dip for dessert, deep-fried bananas in yummy coconut cream. Complete dinners for $15 ($10 lunch) per person, including all taxes, tip and a ginger beer. Open Tuesday to Friday 12:30 to 9:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 1:30 to 9:30 pm. Closed Monday. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: two steps at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNN
2 Brar Sweets 2646 Islington, at Albion, 416-745-4449. An Indian vegetarian fast-food chain in the GTA’s northwest, what it misses in ambience – think donut shop – is made up for by first-rate medium-spiced veggie curries sold in multi-sized takeout containers. Warning: as at most Indian spots, almost all dishes come heavy with ghee (clarified butter), but by the time you get your feast home, the ghee – high in calories and cholesterol – will have risen to the top and is easy to remove. Best: dry turmeric and coconut curry with crunchy red and green peppers, cauliflower, potato and onions chickpea kofta balls mild shahi paneer cheese in a sweet tomato gravy laced with slivered almonds cheesy peas – gingery garden peas ‘n’ paneer sugary shredded-carrot halva rich with almonds and sultanas layered with silver leaf. Other location: 199 Advance Rd, at Dixie, 905-799-1625 755 Dundas West, at Mavis, in Mississauga, 905-848-3933. Complete dinners for $8 per person, including all taxes and tip. Open Monday to Thursday 11 am to 9 pm, Friday and Sunday 11 am to 9:30 pm, Saturday 11 am to 10 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
3 Narula’s 1438A Gerrard East, at Ashdale, 416-466-0434. Some may be put off by the way this bare-bones Indian vegetarian kitchen looks, but the inexpensive spice-intensive – salty, sweet, fiery, sour – snacks dished up here cause the palate to detonate in myriad directions. And everything – except drinks – is two bucks on Tuesday! Best: Bhel Poori, spice-drenched basmati mined with chilies, firm boiled potatoes, crunchy chickpeas, lentils and coriander leaves Sev Poori, milky yogurt dusted with cayenne and shredded crispy rice roodle sheet kicked with minty relish Dahi Vada, lentil-flour doughnuts in cool yogurt or fiery sambar daily thali with veggie subzi – say, eggplant, zucchini, lentil dal or cheesy matar paneer – and basmati, roti and papadam. Complete meals for $10 per person, including all taxes and a large tip. Open Tuesday to Sunday 12:30 to 9:30 pm. Closed Monday. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNN
4 pulp kitchen 898 Queen East, at Logan, 416-461-4612. Further proof Queen East is the new Queen West, and healthy the new hip. Lounge and light funk set an upbeat tone in a calming green and birch room, with tin ceiling, diner-style tables and a selection of organic fair trade goods on offer next to a rack of browsable books. Service is helpful and friendly without a hint of attitude, and it’s clear the place has a loyal following. Bonus: discounts on selected regular menu items encourage customers to try something new. Best: as the name suggests, juices are the focus – surprisingly tasty Rise Up, a blend of garlic, parsley, carrot and celery sweetened with apple juice that counters cold symptoms carrot and beet Iron Beta Blast packs a gingery punch nourishing almond beet salad – an earthenware bowl brimful of roasted root veg and shallot wedges on a bed of spinach garnished with toasted almond slivers, dried cranberries and light champagne vinaigrette as either main or starter with a texture similar to a moist falafel, Ancient Grains Burger mixes organic amaranth, lentils, soy mash and almonds with tasty tahini mayo, roasted tomato and alfalfa sprouts and arrives on slightly toasted fresh flax bread sided with mixed greens and lovely baked home fries. Complete meals for $15 per person, including all taxes, tip and a juice. Open Monday and Tuesday 9 am to 7 pm, Wednesday to Friday 9 am to 9 pm, Saturday 10 am to 9 pm, Sunday 10 am to 7 pm. Brunch Saturday and Sunday 10 am to 4 pm. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
5 Fressen 478 Queen West, at Augusta, 416-504-5127. Though its Red Cat Trading haute chinoiserie decor remains, this virtually luxurious vegetarian kitchen has improved significantly since its debut three years ago. Warning: turns into a vegan disco later in the evening. Best: at brunch, scrambled Tofu Rancheros with halved ‘n’ grilled new-potato home fries, rice-stuffed roasted tomato, mild salsa and guacamole and super house-baked toast Autumn Drum, a steaming bowl of brown rice topped with sweet-glazed barbecued tofu or sliced raw avocado, grilled peppers and spicy lentil dahl Thai-style soups like creamy sweet potato with coconut milk and Srirachi hot sauce at dinner, wild rice ‘n’ tempeh croquette over warm cranberry apple salsa and sided with sweet potato mash and the night’s veg. Complete dinners for $40 per person ($20 at brunch), including all taxes, tip, and a glass of wine. Open Monday to Friday 5:30 to 10 pm, Saturday 5:30 to 11 pm, and for brunch Saturday and Sunday 11 am to 3 pm. Access: One step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
6 simon’s Wok 797 Gerrard East, at Logan, 416-778-9836. A low-key hole in the wall on the fringe of Chinatown East and Riverdale, this vegan spot presents splendid Chinese all-veggie dishes, many featuring meat made from tofu or gluten. Best: peppery mock chicken with deep-fried tofu, green pepper and wood-ear fungus eggplant and bean-curd casserole in black-bean sauce ultra-gingery ginger fried rice Szechuan spicy tofu with mushrooms huge meal-in-one soups. Complete dinners for $10 per person ($7 lunch), including all taxes and tip. Open Sunday to Thursday 11 am to 9 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am to 10 pm. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
7 Udupi Palace 1460 Gerrard East, at Rhodes, 416-405-8138. Inexpensive southern Indian-style vegetarian grub in possibly the city’s most squeaky-clean eatery. Spicing is decidedly meek to appeal to all ages at this U.S. franchise, so bring the kids and the grandparents. Best: holey-as-Swiss-cheese special Rava Masala Dosa laced with green chilies, topped with mild potato ‘n’ onion masala, soupy sambar loaded with veggies and a cautious kick of coconut and coriander chutneys chili pakoras – sweet, battered and deep-fried banana peppers stuffed with potatoes and peas smoky chickpea chana served with grilled chapati and basmati rice tissue-thin crisp paper dosa with the usual sides sweet carrot halwa puraed pudding for dessert sugary mango lassi to sip. Complete dinners for $12 per person, including all taxes and tip. Open daily noon to midnight. Licensed. Access: six steps at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN
8 Annapurna 1085 Bathurst, at Dupont, 416-537-8513. A plain white-on-white room decorated with a ceiling trellis dripping plastic plants, this storefront eatery features typical health-food fare like steamed veggies, tofu and brown rice. But the separate South Indian menu includes veggie curries, chutneys and breads that make nutritious and tasty meals. Best: all-inclusive Indian Assortment for two or three diners – tamarind and coconut chutneys, sour anchaar pickles, puffed puri or flat pappadam bread, samosas, potato bonda and fritter-like bhajia, potato with green pea and spinach subzis bistro-incorrect but acceptable French onion soup wheat-free Dutch apple crisp. Complete dinners for $15 per person ($10 at lunch), including all taxes and tip. Open Monday and Tuesday 11:30 am to 9 pm, Wednesday 11:30 am to 6:30 pm, Thursday to Saturday 11:30 am to 9 pm. Closed Sunday. Unlicensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
9 KENSINGTON NATURAL BAKERY 460 Bloor West, at Brunswick, 416-534-1294. Originally located in the Market, this all-natural – no dairy, egg, refined sugar, artificial colouring or preservatives – vegetarian cafeteria offers more than just nutritious baked goods. Best: genuinely hot ‘n’ spicy deep-fried tofu with crunchy onion sweet multi-bean and corn chili sided with nutty lentil brown rice creamy potato, carrot and tofu curry lasagna-like Rice Noodle or Tofu Banquet layered with veggie-full tomato sauce served with house roughage – lettuce, green pepper, red cabbage – in dilled soy dressing old school butter tarts and whole wheat almond croissants. Complete meals for $7, including all taxes and a butter tart. Open daily 9 am to 10 pm. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
10 Hey Good Cooking 238 Dupont, 416-929-9140. Not much to look at, this alternative veggie venue in the Annex offers economical and nutritious dinners, and they’re not afraid of the spice rack! Best: country garden soup (split peas, red and white kidney beans, carrots, cabbage, celery and tomatoes in a dense veggie broth) spinach and squash pie, a substantial wedge of pulpy veg spiked with sage daily shepherd’s pie and nut ‘n’ mushroom loaf daily variations paired with brown rice, steamed zucchini and carrots along with a creamy-basil-dressed salad of romaine, purple cabbage, green beans and Brussels sprouts yeast-free mini-rotis like the hellfire Caribbean potato, spinach and onion and the less infernal adzuki bean, sesame seed, coriander, tahini and thyme – get any six to take out for $9.90! Complete dinners for $10 per person, including all taxes. Open daily 11 am to 10 pm. Closed holidays. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN
11 Buddha’s Vegetarian Foods 666 Dundas West, at Denison, 416-603-3811. Possibly the bleakest-looking eatery in town, this austere Chinese vegetarian spot makes up for its lack of decor with honest, clean-tasting noodle and ‘shroom dishes. Bring your own garlic. Best: toasted cashew nuts with mixed stir-fried veggies Chinese black, button and straw mushrooms with bok choy massive spring rolls stuffed with sprouts, carrots and mushroom or soya rolls filled with mung beans and chewy cloud ears deep-fried wontons wrapped with gluten and dipped into old-school sweet ‘n’ sour sauce. Complete meals for $8 per person, including all taxes and tip. Open Wednesday to Monday 11 am to 8 pm. Closed Tuesday. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: three steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
12 ORGANIC CAFÉ 238 Queen West, at John, 416-703-4975 . A spin-off of the successful all-organic market that happens here every Saturday, this whole foods takeaway is surrounded by a slew of fast food joints in what was once an abattoir. Great wheat-free baked goods and homemade organic salsas, too. Warning: optional cold cuts in a few sandwiches. Best: daily seasonal soups like split pea or veggie chili cheesy spinach ricotta quiche sweet potato and kale salad in garlic ginger dressing, and mixed bean tofu with apple cider vinaigrette delish single-portion pie made with James Bay wild blueberries organic free-trade coffee. Complete meals for $8 per person, including all taxes, tip and a just-squeezed organic juice. Open Monday to Friday 9 am to 5 pm, Saturday 8 am to 4 pm during Market. Closed Sunday, holidays. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: barrier-free, no washrooms. Rating: NNN
13 King’s Café 192 Augusta, at Baldwin, 416-591-1340. This ovo-lacto vegetarian eatery serves up healthy and nourishing meals that often hit the spot despite some of the weirder mock-meat specialties. Best: asparagus hand roll – tender stalks, pickled carrot, meaty mushrooms, and leaf lettuce in a toasted-nori wrapper fried udon noodles with baby corn, spinach, julienned red pepper, chewy ‘shrooms, and tofu beef that’s actually quite tasty King’s Noodle Soup with slurpable rice noodles, broccoli and deep-fried tofu crustless quiche, a delicious blend of sundried tomato and cheese – feta, mozzarella, cottage – couscous, spinach and eggs Greg’s great green tea ice cream for dessert. Complete meals for $10 per person, including all taxes and tip. Open Monday to Friday 11 am to 9:30 pm, Saturday 10 am to 9:30 pm, Sunday 11 am to 8:30 pm. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN
14 Lotus Garden 393 Dundas West, at Beverley, 416-598-1883. Buddhist vegetarian cooking takes tofu and wheat gluten by-products and turns them into tasty and textured meat substitutes with the culinary contrasts inherent in Vietnamese cuisine. Best: raw rice wrappers packed with crunchy jicama, lettuce and mint leaves, peanuts with a sweet and sour citric vinegar dip honeyed lemon faux-poulet drumsticks glutinous agar salad with juliennes of carrot, daikon and imitation fish sauce dressing faux-beef satay with peppers and lemon grass, sesame and peanut sauce organic shakes like durian, soursop, or avocado fried banana fritters and silky honey-ginger tofu pudding. Complete dinner for $10 per person, including all taxes and tip. Open Sunday to Monday 11 am to 10 pm. Closed Tuesday. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN
15 Govinda’s 243 Avenue at Davenport, 416-922-5415. Located in a church just north of Yorkville, this Hare Krishna haven offers a tasty mostly south Indian veggie spread sold cafeteria-style in the temple’s modest basement. No proselytizing and it’s tax deductible, too. Best: no set menu, but expect things like hearty lentil dahl studded with cinnamon bark and whole chilies meatball-like chickpea kofta with yogurt sauce puraed Brussels sprouts or tofuesque cabbage paneer sabzis roti lashed with curry leaf chapati papadam cooling cabbage and carrot slaw halwa semolina pudding with raisins and honey. Complete dinners for a suggested $7 donation ($5 for students), no tax, no tip and a glass of bottled water. Open Monday to Saturday for lunch noon to 3 pm and for dinner 6 to 8 pm. Closed Sunday. Unlicensed. Cash only Access: 10 steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
16 BO DE DUYEN 254 Spadina, second floor, at Sullivan, 416-703-1247. Bare-bones Chinese and Vietnamese vegetarian family spot complete with high chairs and sticky tables. Spicing is limited to white pepper, very light soy and vinegary Srirachi-style hot sauce. Warning: no garlic and lots of burning incense. Best: crunchy deep-fried spring rolls stuffed with al dente taro and carrot julienne dipped into sour nuac cham deluxe mixed vegetables – vibrant snowpeas, brocolli, carrot flowerets, bok choy, Chinese ‘shrooms and faux barbecued pork – in mild brown gravy (famous Bo De sauce, apparently) over stir-fried egg vermicelli deep-fried taro nest loaded with braised mushroom, diced bell pepper, eggplant and okra to drink, Cafa Sua Da jet fuel. Complete meals for $15 per person ($10 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a domestic brewski. Open daily 11 am to 11 pm. Licensed. Access: 17 steps at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN
17 FRESH BY JUICE FOR LIFE 894 Queen West, at Crawford, 416-913-2720. Formerly just Juice For Life, the three-outlet Fresh By is Toronto’s most successful vegetarian chain. But like other fast food joints, preparation suffers from streamlining. Expect beginner’s brown rice sushi and over-priced salads. Best: Tantric Rice Bowl – a sizable helping of brown basmati rice with chunks of ripe avocado, red pepper and cucumber, topped with marinated arama sea algae, toasted pumpkin seeds and pea-green sprouts is too dry with a meagre sesame wasabi sauce Mushroom Onion Burger – a vegetarian patty containing almond grain, barley and shredded vegetables with fried ‘shrooms and onions, served à la carte, needs a condiment other than ketchup to help moisten and flavour. Other locations: 521 Bloor West, at Bathurst, 416-531-2635 and 336 Queen West, at Spadina, 416-599-4442. Complete dinners for $20 ($15 at lunch) including all taxes, tip and a glass of vital fluid. Open Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 10:30 pm and Saturday and Sunday 10:30 am to 10:30 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier free. Rating: NN
18 Le Commensal 655 Bay, at Dundas, 416-596-9364. A very popular Montreal franchise, this vegetarian cafeteria delivers over 100 menu selections daily – some organic, all noted for egg and dairy allergies – on the first floor of an office building just off Yonge. Expect hearty soups, an extensive build-it-yourself salad bar, just-squeezed juices and several shipped-in meatless mains. Pay the same price per pound whether it’s coleslaw or cheesecake. Best: potato and leek pot pie, couscous veg in turmeric, wild rice with almond slivers, for dessert, carob and pear chocolate mousse torte, pulpy pumpkin pie for macrobiotics, miso soup, steamed kale with brown rice, tasty squash with dried cranberries. Complete meals for $35 per person ($20 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 10 pm, Saturday and Sunday noon to 10 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier free. Rating: NN
19 THE VEGETARIAN 2849 Dundas West, at Keele, 416-762-1204. Opened in the 70s, this west-side institution just north of High Park is Toronto’s longest running vegetarian restaurant. More hippie than hip, the vibe’s as laid-back as a potluck social in a church basement. With doilies. Very earnest, very dull. Best: Yumwiches – a taste sensation originating in Buffalo, N.Y. – soft tortilla wraps stuffed with the likes of pecan-crusted tempeh, mild-mannered guac and devilled organic tofu wholegrain soyburgers optionally topped with dill pickle and soy cheese fair trade organic coffee. Complete meals for $25 per person ($15 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open Tuesday to Thursday 11:30 am to 8:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am to 9:30 pm, Sunday 5 to 8:30 pm. Closed Monday. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NN
20 HOT BOX CAFÉ 191A Baldwin, at Augusta, 416-203-6990. Serving Toronto since we forgot, Kensington head shoppe Roach A Rama deals more than tokin’ paraphernalia, Bob Marley incense and back issues of High Times to a soundtrack of Dave Mathews bootlegs. This tiny adjunct joint also happens to be Toronto’s only – make that only admitted – cannabis cafa. Warning: cold cuts on a few sandwiches. Best: stoner munchies like hemp granola with organic yogurt, and sandwiches such as sun-dried tomato, chèvre, spiced tofu and hemp pesto on challah to drink, herbal tea or hemp-roasted coffee. Open Sunday to Thursday 11 am to 8 pm, Friday 11 am to 9 pm, Saturday 10 am to 9 pm. Unlicensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NN
