TAIPEI, TAIWAN – When NXNE music programmer John Kastner and I roll into the capital of what’s still occasionally referred to as the Republic of China this past February, we are launched on a bullet-train-powered crash course on the rich and diverse indie music scene of this island nation – but even calling it a nation continues to be controversial.
There’s retro 80s rock, reggae, ska, hardcore, punk rock, schmaltzy pop and two guys in chefs’ hats singing Carpenters covers, but mostly it’s incendiary indie rock that’s far enough off the radar not to give a shit, with true invention the result.
Taiwan is poised on the edge of the world’s biggest market – and country – and I’m reminded of the Canadian music scene 25 years ago, when no one expected to be able to break through the shadow cast by American culture. No one bothered selling out, certain that no one was buying anyway.
We see more than 40 bands in 10 days and could have recommended at least a dozen acts. We’re bringing three of the best to this year’s NXNE: pop punksters White Eyes, art rockers My Skin Against Your Skin (MSAYS) and electro-dance DJs Unfamiliar Friends Party.
These bands play elegant, government-supported arts institutions and live houses, as well as gritty, grimy punk clubs where two long-hairs from North America stick out like a Lincoln in a laneway.
Downstairs in a jammed underground club at the edge of Taipei’s National University, the punk-pop power of White Eyes electrifies. And the eyeball necklace that bass player Balafun is wearing is pretty damned cool. Riveting frontwoman and guitar player Gao Xiao-gao snarls and seduces. A paper lantern woven into her hair adds to her can’t-be-denied aura. This is a must-see NXNE show.
Next day, in a rehearsal space just off one of Taipei’s more elegant streets, we quickly fall under the spell of MSAYS’s sexy, dreamy, driven rock powered by lead singer Andréa Huang.
And a day later, Unfamiliar Friends Party lead singer Hollistar promises to buy everyone in a packed club steaks if they vote for the band to go to NXNE. We don’t score any meat, but the surprisingly dynamic show put on by this laptop-driven band propelled by Hollistar’s irresistible dance moves doesn’t need any kind of bribe to earn a slot at the fest. UFP call their sound “computer game music.” We call it catchy electro fun.
The White Eyes play Cherry Cola’s, Thursday (June 16), midnight, $15 Bovine Sex Club, Friday (June 17), 11 pm, $15 Silver Dollar, Saturday (June 18), 10 pm, $12. See listing.
My Skin Against Your Skin play the Garrison, Thursday (June 16), 2 am, $15 Comfort Zone, Friday (June 17), 11 pm, $12 Bovine Sex Club, Saturday (June 18), midnight, $15. See listing.
Unfamiliar Friends Party play the Great Hall, Thursday (June 16), 10 pm, $15 Cherry Cola’s, Friday (June 17), 10 pm, $12 Painted Lady, Saturday (June 18), 2 am, $12. See listing.
All shows accessible to NXNE wristband/pass holders. nxne.com.
