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Drinks Food & Drink

Rum reaches for new cred

The preferred pick-me-up of colonial rabble-rousers, the life of the tiki party and the disgraceful death of far too many slaves to the sugar trade. 

Despite ongoing predictions that rum could be the next “it” dram, it’s still trying to shake its vagabond status – understandable for a spirit lavished and laden with enough history and mythology to fill the Caribbean basin and flood the Americas. 

For all its ubiquity and influence, rum is traditionally one of the world’s most unregulated (and undervalued) spirits. The Caribbean might be recognized as rum’s spiritual home, but it can technically be distilled anywhere on the planet from any liquified form of sugar cane (juice, syrup or molasses).

But the centuries-long legacy that fostered the overarching cultural significance of rum in the Caribbean deserves an official nod. WIRSPA, the West Indies Rum and Spirits Producers’ Association, established the Authentic Caribbean Rum Marque in 2008 to establish criteria and monitor the production of rums from 15 Caribbean territories, promoting rums of quality and helping to weed out those of dubious provenance (bootleg rum is still very much a thing).

ACR certification programs that aim to educate industry professionals on the history and identity of Caribbean rums were launched in Toronto, Vancouver and Montreal earlier this summer. It might sound like trivial booze-eaucracy to some, but for others it’s a step toward claiming rum’s deserved respect. 

Though products with the ACR marque are by no means the only authentic rums – in the Caribbean or elsewhere (remarkably rummy places like Cuba, Martinique and many South American nations are not members), transparency and regulations can do a lot for a spirit’s reputation. Hell, rules sure worked for bourbon.

Intrinsically rambunctious, sordid and fascinating, with the added bonus of being (generally) downright delectable, rum’s a beautiful beast. A little leash won’t break it but it will help instill better manners and by extension, credibility.

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Smith & Cross Traditional Jamaican Rum

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Why A medley of heavy- and medium-bodied rums, this charismatic bottling bears the trademark of one of England’s oldest producers of sugar and spirits. At 57 per cent (traditional navy strength), this spicy monster screams cocktails.

Price 750 ml/$38.15

Availability LCBO 402834

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English Harbour Aged 5 Years Antigua Rum

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Why Silken and light bodied, English Harbour’s five-year-old is the pinnacle of sippability. Antigua’s drier climate accelerates evaporation during the aging process, rounding out gorgeous rums in (comparatively) no time at all.

Price 750 ml/$34.10

Availability LCBO 377192

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Bacardi 8 Years Old

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Why By far Bacardi’s best bang for the buck, this blend of eight-year and older rums was once the exclusive dram of the Bacardi family (back when they actually produced rum in Cuba). Equally enjoyable neat, on the rocks or in cocktails. 

Price 750 ml/$30.95

Availability LCBO 492520

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