Formerly known as your weird aunt’s obscure tipple and the dustiest bottle behind every bar, vermouth – a fortified, often sweetened wine flavoured with herbs and spices – is haute in the Americas for the first time in a century.
Though it’s had a devoted following as an aperitif in European nations like France, Italy and Spain for ages, vermouth piggybacked onto the 21st-century North American cocktail renaissance as a fundamental ingredient. Most recently, it’s broken free of the mixing glass to be appreciated on its own, usually on the rocks with a twist of citrus or a plump green olive.
Locally, vermouth’s popularity has been propelled by Toronto’s favourite spot for pintxos and day drinks, Bar Raval (505 College, thisisbarraval.com), which offers 16 types of vermouth on the rocks or in a Spanish Fizz with soda and/or cava.
Further testament to vermouth’s surge is the latest release from Niagara distillers Dillon’s: a small-batch Ontario sweet vermouth.
“We have a roomful of botanicals and already make 50 per cent of our product from grapes, so it seemed crazy not to do a vermouth,” says Geoff Dillon, who develops and distills the products along with his father, Peter, an engineer and expert on botanicals.
“We tried to make it as classic as we could, but what’s different about our vermouth is that we’re fortifying it with grapes from Niagara and trying to use as many local ingredients as possible.”
Flavoured with strawberries from the farm across from the distillery and estate-grown wormwood, Dillon’s first official batch of vermouth – a project two years in the making – also includes more traditional ingredients like gentian, bitter orange peel, sarsaparilla, vanilla and cinchona.
The residual sugar has been curbed to around 146 grams per litre, balancing rich berry and vanilla notes with the bitter snap of wormwood, gentian and orange peel.
Dillon’s first batch of vermouth hits bars and restaurants in Toronto in the next few weeks, and 300 cases are slated for a limited autumn release at the LCBO.
Our picks
Bosca Vermouth di Torino Rosso
Rating: NNN
Why A new vermouth in Ontario is a cause for celebration (or at the very least, a source of extreme curiosity). Bosca falls under the “Vermouth di Torino” DOC, a protected denomination in Piedmont reserved for the kind of spicy, bittersweet fortified wines made famous by celebrated producer, Giulio Cocchi. Bosca is no Cocchi, but it’s a balanced, not-too-sweet workhorse vermouth at a great price.
Price $13.35/1000 ml
Availability LCBO 440875
Byrrh Grand Quinquina
Rating: NNNN
Why Quinquina, fortified wine flavoured with cinchona bark along with other herbs and spices, is hard to find in this part of the country. Pronounced “beer,” Byrrh is a must-grab for any cocktail enthusiast or fortified wine freak. Spicy and lightly medicinal with a merry-go-round of fruit.
Price $14.90/750 ml
Availability LCBO 440909
iSpritz L’Aperitivo
Rating: NNN
Why Considering the grand rise of the aperitivo, it’s shocking that we haven’t seen more single-pour spritzes. As a rule, I throw shade in the direction of every RTD (ready-to-drink) product, but I really tried to keep an open mind with this one, which hails from an established Italian Prosecco house. It’s a bit creamsiclesque, so don’t neglect to toss an orange twist in as recommended.
Price $11.50/750 ml
Availability LCBO 447748, limited quantities
What we’re drinking tonight!
Agave & It
The Gin & It (the “It” is short for Italian vermouth), the stiffer cousin of the Americano and the Negroni made with equal parts gin and sweet vermouth, deserves more attention than it receives. I almost feel guilty stealing what little thunder it has, but an Agave & It is my preferred variation. (Whatever. Drinks don’t have feelings, right?)
Start with a bright, citrusy blanco tequila (Olmeca Altos Plata is on sale for $29.95 till July 17, LCBO 454074) or an herbaceous, smoke-soaked mezcal, add the vermouth of your choice (perhaps the delicate Dolin Vermouth De Chambery Rouge, $14.40, LCBO 370841), throw in a twist of citrus (grapefruit all the way) and you’ve got a drink fit for any and every summer jam.
drinks@nowtoronto.com | @S_Parns
