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Licence to grill: the veggie burger guide

PRESIDENT’S CHOICE SWISS PORTOBELLO BURGER 

I won’t lie – these veggie burgers are effing delicious. Despite their flavour appeal, though, they’re not light on the conscience, thanks to their soy protein concentrate/isolate. PC’s consumer hotline says that soy is indeed genetically modified. Plus, the oil that helps bind it together is canola, which like soy is also commonly modified to be Roundup-ready, in which case both crops are likely sprayed with glyphosate. That’s an herbicide that’s recently been labelled a probable human carcinogen by the WHO. Studies have also blamed glyphosate use for eradicating the milkweed that vanishing monarchs need to survive.

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YVES

Yves, along with Boca, Morningstar and Gardein were all called out a few years back for using soy protein that had been processed with hexane, a fossil-fuel-derived industrial degreaser that also happens to be a major air pollutant. Yves says that while its Deli Slices are hexane-free, its burgers are still processed using hexane (though the company says it’s not in the final product). On the bright side, the burgers are in the middle of getting non-GMO verified, and Yves says its soy, canola and corn fillers are currently non-GMO. Contains wheat gluten.

SCORE: NN

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GARDEIN 

This Vancouver company offers up a lot of meatless products similar to Yves’. It used to process its soy with hexane, but not any more. Also, its soy, canola and corn fillers are non-GMO. The burgers are still highly processed, non-organic, fake meat products, but the ingredients are a little cleaner than Yves’. Gardein also makes gluten-free options.

SCORE: NNN

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SOL CUISINE and YING YING 

Two indie Canadian companies churning out solid veggie burgers. Sol Cuisine has the widest flavour selection, from Spicy Black Bean to Indian Masala. It even does sliders. Many aren’t organic, but the soy in them is Non-GMO Project Verified. Go for the ones with the most organic ingredients, like the Almond Grain with Ontario-grown organic soy okara or the soy-free Sprouted Quinoa Chia. T-Dot based Ying Ying also uses certified organic, Ontario-grown soy to make its Okara burgers, which have a falafel-like texture. 

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HOMEMADE VEGGIE BURGER

Considering all the less than delectable ingredients in most store-bought veggie burgers, you might consider slapping together your own patties. The web is crowded with recipes for meatless burgers, but many of them are mushy in the middle or just fall apart on the grill. Ohsheglows.com offers up a top-notch recipe with a crunchy, chewy texture that avoids all the usual pitfalls. If you’re allergic to almonds, just replace them with sunflower seeds. Doug McNish’s new Vegan Everyday cookbook offers up a tasty black bean-millet option. Or keep it simple (and 100-mile) by BBQing a locally grown portobello.

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