To apply a played-out descriptor like "stunning" to Jen Agg's brand new Kensington wine bar seems kind of careless. We don't exaggerate when we say "perfect" is a better word. Yes, Grey Gardens is primarily a restaurant with beautiful food by chef and co-owner Mitchell Bates, but the elegant marble bar, which accepts walk-ins only, deserves drinks-specific praise.
The focus is on low-intervention and biodynamic wines and ciders, and the list, curated by GM and sommelier Jake Skakun, is one of the city's most interesting and best-priced. There are whispers about a secret sake list. Cocktails are few and classic, and there are just three draft options - a craft cider, a local beer and Coors Light.
Unlike most other month-old bars, Grey Gardens knows exactly what it is and has no interest in being everything to everyone. But certain people, savouring a glass of orange wine as the city's prettiest room blushes with late afternoon sunlight, might experience something like an epiphany.
Open Wednesday to Sunday 5 pm to 1 am; one step at door, washroom on main floor.
